Craft-beer pioneer is still eyeing the next big thing
Top photo: Jodi and Keith Villa and their daughter, Catherine (right), co-own Ceria Brewing Company. (Photo: Jodi Villa)
Keith Villa, who invented Blue Moon Belgian White, thinks cannabis-infused beer might take off; he and his wife, Jodi, both CU Boulder alums, have launched an alcohol-free brewery that could help lead the way
Keith Villa did not set out to shake up the American beer industry. Heād aimed to become a medical doctor, but his love of biology led him to become a bona fide beer doctor. That led to the kind of career that happens once in a blue moon.
Or, rather, a Blue Moon.
In 1995, Villa invented whatās now known as Molson Coors Blue Moon Belgian White beer. Ultimately, it became the largest craft beer on the market.
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Keith Villa (MCDBio'86) got his start in the science of beer by responding a job posting at Coors for someone to do molecular research on how to improve their yeast. (Photo: Jodi Villa)
After more than three decades at Molson Coors, Keith Villa and his wife, Jodi Villa, launched , which brews alcohol-free beer and is eyeing the potential for alcohol-free beer infused with cannabis. The Villas are still busy innovating, and their latest chapter is still being written.
Itās a tale with several plot twists, but one key player was the ³Ō¹ĻĶų of Colorado Boulder.
Improving yeast
Before college, Keith Villa was inspired by his mother, who was a registered nurse at the Veterans Administration hospital in Denver. He resolved to become a pediatrician.
While in high school, Keith and Jodi met and began to forge their own partnership. They both enrolled at CU Boulder, he in a pre-med program and she in architectural engineering. Both graduated in 1986.
As a student in molecular, cellular and developmental biology, he worked in the laboratory of Professor Emeritus Lawrence āLarryā Gold, who founded NeXstar Pharmaceuticals.
In the Gold lab, Villa was helping graduate students conduct original research. In 1986, shortly before he graduated with his bachelorās degree, Villa responded to a job posting at Coors for someone to do molecular research on how to improve their yeast.
āAnd I thought, āWow, thatās exactly what Iām doing here.āā
Coors hired him more or less immediately, and he went to work trying to design a yeast that would make it cheaper to brew light beer. Although Villa was successful, the yeast was never used commercially, he notes.
After that project concluded, Villa told Coors he was ready to quit to pursue a PhD in biochemistry. Coorsā director of research and development made a counteroffer: Go to Belgium to join a PhD program in brewing, and Coors would foot the bill.
Keith and Jodi didnāt have a mortgage or family yet, so they said, āLetās do it.ā
Studying in Belgium
Belgium was an eye opener. Easy train rides to Germany, Switzerland and beyond widened their horizons to new beers, foods and regional dialects. He conducted his PhD research in Belgium and finished writing his dissertation in Colorado.
Villaās bosses at Coors said, āWell, you just came back from Belgium. You know about these beers. Can you make something?ā
āSo thatās when I created Blue Moon,ā Villa says.
The top executives at Coors had initial reservations about this new beer: Why was it cloudy and infused with orange peel and coriander, for instance? Eventually, however, Blue Moon became a billion-dollar brand, brewing 2 million barrels a year.
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Keith Villa (in the CERIA lab in Brussels, Belgium) earned his PhD at CERIA and named his company in honor of it. (Photo: Jodi Villa)
By 2017, Villa had done āa lot of what I wanted to do in the brewing world,ā and he retired from Coors. Soon, he and Jodi launched Ceria Brewing Co., which pays homage to Ceres, the Roman goddess of the harvest. āCeriaā also reflects CERIA, the acronym of the Belgian campus where Keith earned his PhD.
Initially, Ceria produced cannabis-infused beers sold through dispensaries in Colorado and California, and they were aimed at those who consume THC in moderation. But the products faced regulatory hurdles, not least of which is that the federal government doesnāt recognize cannabis as a legitimate business undertaking. The U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency classifies marijuana as a Schedule 1 controlled substance, even though individual states have legalized it to varying degrees.
'Bad movies, hot showers and vanilla'
Today, Ceria offers two non-infused alcohol-free beer styles: Grainwave Belgian-Style White and Indiewave Hoppy IPA. Grainwave is brewed with orange peel and coriander (sound familiar?) and is billed as pairing well with Mexican food, anything spicy, ābad movies, hot showers and vanilla.ā
Indiewave, meanwhile, is said to pair well with ācharcuterie, Middle Eastern cuisine, after-parties, rainy days, chocolate, your record collection.ā
Ceriaās offerings are alcohol free, which differ from ānon-alcoholicā beers. According to federal regulations, non-alcoholic beer must be sold with less than 0.5 % alcohol by volume. Alcohol-free beers must have 0.0%.
That distinction matters. One reason is that to infuse beer with THC, the psychotropic ingredient in cannabis, the beer must be alcohol free. And selling cannabis-infused beer could be, in Villaās estimation, the next big thing.
Hemp-derived THC is a key ingredient. Hemp is distinguished from marijuana largely by the concentration of THC in each; hempās concentration is lower. In some states, itās legal to distribute hemp-derived THC, and selling cannabis-infused beer there is more cost-effective for brewers and consumers.
In states where such sales are legal, Villa notes, consumers can buy cannabis-infused beer in many places, right next to alcoholic beers.
āAnd when you offer a consumer that choice, you see these beverages just start to take off,ā Villa says, adding that thereās a sizable market of people who donāt want to drink alcohol, āor they want to switch back and forth, maybe alcohol this weekend, next weekend cannabis.ā
āI would say that we were probably a little ahead of our time with what we did, because now when you look at hemp-derived THC, that really proves our original thesis that beverages with THC are a really great option for people that donāt want alcohol all the time, or they may find alcohol to be bad for their health.ā
Now the Villas watch the national market and wait for regulatory changes that could help restart their efforts to sell cannabis-infused beer.
As Villa observed, āWe socialize with beverages, and you canāt toast a bride and groom with a gummy.ā
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